The history of Gozo spans some 7,000 years. It is perhaps inevitable that along the way nuggets of truth got mixed with bits of fiction to give rise to captivating legends and myths. In today’s blog, we take a look at three of the island’s best-loved legends, where a painting comes to life, Homer’s Ulysses enjoys views of Ramla Bay, and a ray of light gives an iconic hill its name.
The Legend of San Dimitri
The San Dimitri Chapel, limits of Għarb. Photo: Baron Holiday Homes
This legend tells the story of Żgugina, a widow who resided just off the westerly village of Għarb with her only son, Mattew. According to the legend, Żgugina would visit the nearby chapel of San Dimitri every day, where she prayed for her son’s protection from enslavement by Turkish pirates, who attacked and pillaged the island regularly back then. Despite her fervent prayers, it was only a matter of time before her worst fears materialised and her son was taken captive. This vicious attack did not only leave Żgugina without her Mattew. It also left the chapel of San Dimitri in ruins, save for a painting of the saint on horseback.
Desperately, Żgugina prayed to San Dimitri to perform a miracle and return her son safely. Legend has it that San Dimitri took human form and galloped out of the painting towards the coast, returning with Mattew in his arms shortly after. Żgugina was so caught up in the happy moment that she failed to notice San Dimitri’s retreat back into the painting, but expressed her gratitude by keeping an oil lamp burning in front of the painting every day. It is said that some time later the area was hit by a landslide, with the 15th-century chapel of San Dimitri ending up submerged but remaining intact. Apparently, divers exploring the underwater area have claimed to have come across a chapel resting on the seabed, which emits a mysterious glow.
The present chapel found in the area where these happenings are said to have unfolded, dates back to the 17th century and houses an altarpiece that depicts the legend of San Dimitri. Nowadays, the area is not associated with violent attacks by pirates but rather with the tranquillity and beathtaking views that only rural Gozo can offer. The area has also become synonymous with the island’s Wind and Kite Festival, which has been taking place every October since 2017. To see how you can incorporate a visit to the chapel of San Dimitri into a walk along Gozo’s western coast, click here.
The Legend of Calypso
The view of Ramla Bay from the area close to Calypso's Cave. Photo: Baron Holiday Homes
It is very likely that you are familiar with Homer’s epic poem the Odyssey. But did you know that some believe that the supposedly mythical island of Ogygia, which features in this masterpiece, is actually Gozo? While the story is recounted over 24 books, our main interest here is how Ulysses, the poem’s hero, ends up on the island of Ogygia. Or was it Gozo? On the way home to Ithaca after the Trojan War, Ulysses’ vessel gets caught up in a violent thunderstorm, which claims the lives of all his shipmates. The only survivor, Ulysses washes up on the shores of an unknown island – Ogygia. Here, he is lured to a cave by the song of the beautiful nymph Calypso, who holds him captive for seven long years before releasing him.
It is said that the cave mentioned in the Odyssey is located on Gozo’s north-eastern coast and overlooks the stunning Ramla Bay and the surrounding valley. Having presumably been Calypso’s abode, this cave is known as Calypso’s Cave, and it is connected to the sea through a warren of tunnels. Unfortunately, access to the cave had to be closed off to the public for safety reasons, but one can still enjoy spectacular views of Ramla Bay’s surroundings from a nearby viewing platform. Nowadays no nymph lures visitors into captivity with her song. But the soothing sound of the waves rolling into the red-hued sands of Ramla Bay below could possibly be just as alluring. Equally stunning views of the bay can be enjoyed from Tal-Mixta Cave, which is located on the opposite side of Calypso Cave.
The Legend of Tal-Merżuq Hill
Tal-Merżuq Hill, also known locally as Tas-Salvatur (of the Saviour). Photo: Baron Holiday Homes
Driving to the seaside village of Marsalforn from Victoria, one cannot miss a conical hill on the left. On it, an imposing six-metre-high statue of Christ our Saviour has stood since the 1970s. The present statue is not the first to have been erected atop the hill, with the original statue having been placed here in 1904, only to succumb to the elements. The second statue, which was based on the designs of respected Gozitan sculptor Wistin Camilleri, suffered a similar fate amid a violent thunderstorm.
The hill goes by two names; the more popular Tas-Salvatur and the lesser-known moniker Tal-Merżuq. The latter is connected to a legend that recounts how God punished the people of Gozo by shrouding the island in darkness for three whole days. At the end of the third day, a ray of light, or merżuq in Maltese, was seen coming out of the hill. This prominent geographical landmark in Gozo’s skyline, appears to have captured the imagination of many a local. According to tradition, black smoke was once seen drifting from the hill, giving rise to the belief that it was a volcano. However, there has never been any scientific evidence of volcanic activity in the area. The fact that it is possible to see a fuming Mount Etna from Tas-Salvatur Hill on a particularly clear day, can partly explain what gave rise to this myth.
If you are wondering whether you can ascend Tas-Salvatur Hill – the answer is yes! Both the upward climb and the descent can prove to be challenging as there is not a clear path that takes you straight to the top. But the panorama one can enjoy from this viewpoint certainly makes up for some puffing and panting along the way.
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Posted in Churches, Heritage, Local, Traditions, What to see in Gozo
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